Inside Your House Checklist

• 
  Wash all windows.
  
• Use glass cleaner, or one squirt of dishwashing liquid in a spray bottle filled with water, and wipe down with a microfiber cloth. Pick a cloudy day so you can better see any streaks.
• 
  Vacuum dusty canvas, cotton, and treated fabric blinds.
  
• Use a low setting with a brush attachment. Vinyl shades can be wiped down with a dampened microfiber cloth if they need a little more attention.
• 
  Moderately dirty window treatments need a two-step approach.
  
• Start by dusting or vacuuming the valance and frame, then vacuum from top to bottom using the upholstery attachment for drapes, and the brush attachment for blinds. Or submerge blinds or shades in a few inches of cool water and two teaspoons of dishwashing liquid (check labels first to make sure this is safe). Take out the metal weights first; they can rust.
• 
  If your window coverings are very dirty, check labels for cleaning instructions.
  
• Some cotton, polyester, rayon, and wool drapes can be machine washed on delicate. Always send lace, linen, satin, and silk drapes and shades to a professional cleaner.
• 
  Clean the walls.
  
• Dust, wash, rinse, and dry painted or wood-paneled walls.
• 
  Clean ceiling-mounted light fixtures.
• 
  Vacuum and spot-clean upholstered furniture and cushions.
  
• Deep-clean if necessary.
• 
  Wipe down the kitchen cupboards.
  
• Empty them, wash them down, replace liners (if you use them), declutter, and reorganize.
• 
  Dust off the refrigerator condenser coil.
  
• Use your vacuum's brush attachment and gently vacuum it.
• 
  Do the carpets.
  
• Have carpets professionally cleaned if needed.
• 
  Evaluate any wooden floors.
  
• Have scratched or dull wood floors professionally scuff-sanded and recoated, or completely refinished.
• 
  Spruce up your computer.
  
• Dust the CPU, clean and wipe down the keyboard, and dust off the monitor with a microfiber cloth.
• 
  Straighten the closets.
  
• Declutter and reorganize.
• 
  Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.
  
• Or install them, if you haven't yet.
• 
  Replace the furnace filter.
  
• If you haven't changed your furnace filter within the past three months, do so now.
• 
  Sweep the chimneys.
  
• Have the wood-burning fireplace and stove flues and chimneys professionally inspected and swept.
• 
  Declutter and clean out the attic.

Outside Your House Checklist

• 
  Check weather stripping and caulking around doors and windows.
  
• Repair or replace as needed.
• 
  Check and clean the gutters.
  
• Do the downspouts, too.
• 
  Clean the patio furniture.
  
• Then store away.
• 
  Drain and store garden hoses.
• 
  Check the exterior paint.
  
• Touch up as needed.
• 
  Drain the pool, if applicable.
  
• ​Close it up for the year.

With the feel of fall in the air, it’s time to think about getting your home ready for colder weather. Much of the routine maintenance that needs to be done this time of year will not only help keep you cozy this winter, it will also save money on your heating bill and protect your biggest investment—your home.
While most of these routine maintenance tasks are fairly simple, make sure they get done before cold weather arrives to prevent damage to both your home and wallet.
To-Do #1: Seal Up Cracks and GapsIf you added up all the small cracks, gaps, and holes around the outside of the average home, it would equal the area of an open window! To reduce the loss of heat, carefully inspect the perimeter of your home and caulk or weather-strip where needed.
Both caulking and weather stripping can reduce the flow of cold air in and warm air out—lowering your energy costs substantially.
Check the following key areas for leaks:

• Around door and window frames.
• Gaps around electrical outlets, phone lines, and outdoor faucets.
• Around heating and/or cooling units.
• The seal around room air conditioners.
• At corners formed by siding.
• Openings around drain pipes in bathrooms and kitchens.

How to CaulkNow that you’ve identified the problem areas around your home, it’s time to seal them up:

1. 1. Start by cleaning the surface to remove dirt, loose paint, and old caulk.

1. 1. Determine which caulk to use based on the size of crack or gap and the surrounding material. Read our article on A Homeowner’s Guide to Caulk to find out more.

1. 1. Cut the tip off the tube of caulking at a 45° angle and load it into the caulking gun. Since the tip is tapered, the more you cut off, the wider the bead of caulk.

1. 1. Use a long nail or the puncture tool found on caulking guns to break the inner seal.

1. 1. Apply a uniform bead of caulk to the gap, making sure it covers both sides and completely fills the crack.

1. 1. Remove any excess then smooth the bead of caulk with your finger before it begins to set.

1. Insert a tight fitting nail in the end of the tube of caulking to prevent it from drying out.

To-Do #2:
Applying Weather Stripping
Apply weather-stripping at joints where two surfaces meet, such as around windows and doors, to give an airtight seal. There are several different types of weather stripping and each has its benefits and drawbacks.

After you have chosen the appropriate weather stripping, follow the instructions that came with it for proper application.

Tape:
Lasts only one year and should only be used on windows or doors that will not be opened. Tends to dry and loosen within one heating season
Felt: Lasts only one or two years and should be used on top or side of doors or window frames for sealing gaps of uniform width
Foam: Lasts only one or two years and should be used on the bottom of window sashes or around the frame of a warped or loose-fitting door (wood-backed foam)
Vinyl Tubing: Lasts around five years and can be used on windows or doors.
For more information on caulking and weather
stripping, watch our video on How to Caulk and Seal Gaps and Cracks.

To-Do #3:
​ Inspect Your Roof Check your roof for signs of minor damage such as missing, broken, cracked, or curling shingles, as well as bare spots where the granular coating has worn off. Be sure to make the necessary minor repairs now to prevent further damage.
When moisture is able to seep up and under loose or damaged shingles far more expensive damage can occur. For extensive roof repairs, consider having a professional perform the work. However, if you are fairly handy and are comfortable climbing a ladder, you should be able to take care of most minor repairs.
Purchase roofing cement in caulking tubes to seal minor cracks and holes and glue down curled shingles. For bigger jobs, roofing cement is available in large containers.
If the damage is extensive, or the shingle is missing, replace it immediately to prevent more serious damage from occurring. Also, if you have a fireplace, be sure to check for gaps around the flashing and caulk to seal.

To-Do #4: Clean and Repair Gutters
​Dirty, clogged gutters can cause a myriad of problems during the winter months including flooded basements and damage to your foundation and landscaping. To clean, simply remove all debris so that water can drain properly and consider installing gutter guards to prevent additional debris from building up.
To see how it’s done, watch our video on How to Clean Gutters. More information on gutters can be found in our article on The Trouble with Gutters.
If you don’t enjoy climbing ladders, consider assembling a homemade gutter cleaner using long strips of PVC pipe attached to a regular garden hose. This will allow you to frequently and safely rinse out your gutters ensuring they do not become clogged.
To see how it’s done, watch our video on how to make a PVC Gutter Cleaner

To-Do #5: Trim Back Trees and BushesTrimming your trees and hedges in the fall not only leaves you with less mess, it also improves the appearance of your shrubbery and can prevent or correct a safety hazard. While power tools are terrific (and a must for a large number of trees and bushes) most seasonal pruning and trimming can be taken care of with a few affordable hand tools.
Hand pruners, hedge trimmers, loping shears, and a pruning saw will take care of most small branches and limbs. First look for and remove dead or diseased limbs, then cut back excessive growth and trim the bush into the desired shape. Read our article on Basic Shrub Pruning Techniques to see how it’s done.
For taller trees and thicker limbs, consider calling in a professional especially if branches are dangerously close to power lines. You may also consider contacting your town or utility company, as major tree trimming may be their responsibility.

To-Do #6: Fertilize Your LawnFall is a great time to fertilize your lawn as it provides grass with the nutrients required for the winter when the top layer of grass is dormant but the root systems continue to grow. During this period roots easily absorb and store the nutrients a good fertilizer will provide and fall fertilizing will also help your lawn “green-up” faster in early spring.
Depending on your part of the country and the type of grass you have, the correct fertilizer for your lawn many vary. However, almost all zones and lawn types require a fertilizer rich in nitrogen and phosphorus. Nitrogen affects the color, rooting, and disease resistance of a lawn, and a yellowish appearance may signal a nitrogen deficiency.
Phosphorus is the key for strong roots and a lawn deficient in Phosphorus may have an unusual tint that may be on the purple side. A lawn rich in phosphorus will fight disease better and be more tolerant to extreme elements.
For more on fertilizing your yard, check out our article on Fertilizer 101 or watch our videos on Fertilizer Selection and Fertilizer Application

To-Do #7: Winterize LawnmowerNow that you’ve cut your grass for the final time this year, take a few minutes to properly store your lawnmower so it will start easily in the spring.
First, completely remove all fuel by either draining the gas tank or running it empty. Alternatively, consider adding a fuel conditioner and topping up the gas tank to prevent any moisture from condensing in the tank. Once you have added the conditioner, run the engine for a minute or two to circulate the additive through the carburetor. This will help prevent gum from forming in the fuel system or on essential carburetor parts.
Next remove spark plugs and apply a small amount of oil in the cylinder. Start your engine to burn off oil as well as lubricate the pistons, rings, and cylinder walls. Finally, wipe your lawnmower clean of all grass and debris and be sure to store it in a clean, dry area far away from any stove, furnace, water heater, or other appliance that uses a pilot light or can create a spark.
More information on maintaining your lawnmower is available in our article on Lawn Mower Maintenance

​A yellow goldfinch couple shares the thistle feeder with a red house finch.
Whether your home is a 5-acre farm or a 5th floor apartment, you can bring yourself a little closer to nature by attracting and feeding wild birds. Getting started is easy, and once you have some “regulars,” you’ll be able to learn what they like and how to keep them visiting. Pretty soon, you’ll feel you know your birds personally and can experience the joy of watching them feed, sing, and tend their nests.

​ A brown thrasher enjoys a suet feeder.
Types of Bird Feeders To start, all you need is a bird feeder filled with seed that’s attractive to the birds in your area. There are several different types of feeders available:

• Hopper feeders are usually made of metal, wood, or plastic. A large hopper or container holds the seed, with holes or levered dispensers to allow the birds to access the seed on a small tray or spout. Hopper feeders will accommodate many types and sizes of birds and are a good choice for beginning bird watchers. The downside is that the seed is exposed to the elements and to plundering critters.

• Tube feeders have perches and feeding ports around a hollow tube. They’re designed for smaller perching birds and may be geared for specific types of birds. For example, finch feeders have small openings to dispense tiny thistle seeds and short perches that discourage other birds. Since birds have to reach in the tube for seeds, they are more squirrel-resistant than open feeders.

• Platform feeders are open and flat, sometimes with a roof to shield rain and drainage holes to prevent flooding. They can accommodate large crowds of birds (as well as other critters!) and can either be placed high, for perching birds, or near the ground, for ground-feeding birds. Platform feeders can be used with any kind of bird food, such as seed, peanuts, or even bits of fruit or suet.
• Suet Feeders are usually made of wire mesh and designed to hold cakes of suet or other fatty food. Suet cakes are made from rendered beef fat mixed with seed or fruit and allowed to harden. They may be purchased premade, or you can make them yourself. Suet feeders are particularly useful during the winter when birds need to increase their fat intake in order to stay warm.
• Mesh Feeders come in various shapes and sizes and can be made of wire, plastic, or fabric. Birds feed by pulling seed through holes in the mesh. Peanut feeders are wire mesh tubes with large openings for dispensing shelled peanuts. Sock-shaped fabric feeders often come prefilled – just hang and enjoy. Other feeders are designed for specific proprietary seed or food cakes.
• Nectar feeders are different from other feeders in that they use a liquid, rather than solid, food and are specifically designed to attract either hummingbirds or orioles. Nectar feeders consist of a reservoir which is filled with a liquid solution of sugar and water, with small perches and feeding openings for hummingbirds’ long bills or larger openings to accommodate oriole beaks.
• Wild Bird FoodBirds eat a variety of seeds and fruits. Here are some ideas for choosing the right food for your birds:
  
• Black-oil sunflower seed is the most popular seed and attracts many different types of birds. It’s a great choice if you’re choosing just one type of seed.
• Safflower seed is also a popular choice, since it’s favored by cardinals while considered not as palatable by both squirrels and grackles.
• Mixed bird seed usually contains seeds such as sunflower, safflower, millet, and cracked corn. It’s good for attracting a variety of birds, but be sure to buy a high-quality mix since discount mixes often contain filler grains that birds don’t like. If you find that your birds are discarding seeds in order to get to their favorites, try refilling the feeder with just the seed they like.
• Nyjer or Thistle seed attracts finches, chickadees, doves, pine siskins, and white-throated sparrows.
• Peanuts are popular with cardinals, chickadees, jays, nuthatches, and sparrows.
• Suet is a good choice for cardinals, chickadees, nuthatches, starlings, woodpeckers, and wrens.
• Fresh or dried fruit is popular with bluebirds, cardinals, cedar waxwings, orioles, thrushes, and woodpeckers.
• Nectar is most often used for hummingbirds and orioles. Boil a solution of one part sugar to four parts water for several minutes then allow to cool. Replace unused nectar every few days.
• Hanging Bird FeedersBird feeders can be hung from trees, set on the ground, or attached to poles. Specialty feeders are available with suction-cups for attaching to windows, or even for installing in a windowsill to bring the birds even closer. It may take birds a while to find a new feeder, so don’t give up. Here are some tips for placing your feeder:
  
• Place your feeder where the birds are nesting and roosting. Feeders closer to shrubs and trees – particularly evergreens – are usually more popular than feeders out in the open.
• Protected locations will also be more popular, as the birds can feed out of the wind and rain.
• Keep in mind that squirrels can jump up to 10 feet, so allow a little space around your feeder and consider adding a squirrel baffle to deter them.
• Squirrel baffle
  
• Place your feeders within 3 feet of your windows. Not only can you enjoy the birds better, but the reflection in the glass will help prevent birds from flying into the window.
• If there are cats in the neighborhood, place your feeder high and away from hiding and pouncing spots.
• The area under your feeder will naturally be littered with seed hulls and bird droppings, so place your feeder where the litter won’t matter, and move it every few months to discourage mold and bacterial growth on the ground.
• Refill and clean your feeder regularly. Make sure you place it within easy reach.
• Make sure the feeder is in a place where you can see and enjoy it!
• Mourning doves prefers to feed on fallen seeds or low platform feeders.
  Bird Feeder MaintenanceFollow these tips for taking care of your birds and their feeders:
  
• Discard any seed that is wet or moldy.
• Empty and clean your feeder regularly, using a weak soap-bleach solution. Be sure to rinse several times to remove all residue, and dry thoroughly before refilling. Most seed feeders can be cleaned once a month or so. Nectar feeders have to be cleaned and refilled every few days.

Fall cleanup is important for keeping your lawn healthy.
Fall and spring are the most important times of the year for establishing and strengthening lawns, as well as preparing them for the harsh temperatures of winter and summer. Here are some tips for taking care of your lawn in the fall.
About Fall LawnsThere are two basic types of grasses—cool-season and warm-season—with different needs and requirements:

• Cool-season lawns (fescue, bluegrass, and rye) have their peak growing season in the early fall. This is the absolute best time of year to establish, strengthen, and cultivate these types of grasses.
• Warm-season lawns (Bermuda, centipede, St. Augustine, and zoysia) wind down their growing season as the weather cools. Warm-season grasses go brown and dormant after the first hard freeze, so fall care for them focuses more on weed control and planning for winter color
• Warm-season grass, like St. Augustine, start to go dormant in the fall.
  Fall Lawn CultivationWhen lawns are growing, they respond well to cultivation tasks that improve soil quality. Unless you’re planting a new lawn and can till up the entire area, lawn cultivation is done gradually, every year or two, so that the lawn grasses can recover. Here are the most important lawn cultivation tasks:
  
• Dethatching should be done during your lawn’s peak growing season, but only if the thatch layer is over ½ inch. For cool-season lawns, fall is the perfect time. Hold off on dethatching warm-season lawns until next spring.
• Core Aeration should also be done during your lawn’s peak growing season, so that the grasses can quickly recover. It’s best to aerate cool-season lawns in the fall and warm-season lawns in the spring or early summer.
• Top-Dressing your lawn with topsoil mixed with other ingredients is a great way to finish up the cultivation process, since it evens out lumps and improves soil quality. Top-dress after aerating, and seed any bare spots.
• Correcting Soil pH can be done in the fall for any type of lawn. Start by conducting a soil test to determine what amendments, if any, are needed for your lawn. Apply lime to acid soils or sulfur to alkaline soils according to the recommendations of your soil test.
• 
  
  

​

• Fertilizing Fall LawnsWhether you should fertilize your lawn in the fall or not depends on the type of grass you have.
  
  Apply fertilizer on a cool day, and water it in.
  Fertilizing Cool-Season Lawns
• Start feeding cool-season lawns in late August or September (6 weeks before your average first frost) with a N-P-K ratio of 3:1:2 or 4:1:2. The nitrogen will stimulate green shoots and thick growth. Most lawns benefit from about one pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet. Check the instructions on the fertilizer bag for correct application.
• Apply winterizing fertilizers, which are higher in potassium to promote winter hardiness, around the time of your last mowing of the season (October to November).
• Fertilizer TipToo much fertilizer can burn your lawn. Choose slow-release organic fertilizers whenever possible, and follow package instructions to make sure you apply the correct amount.
  
  Fertilizing Warm-Season Lawns
• Stop feeding warm-season lawns in early August to late September (6-8 weeks before your average first frost). Do not fertilize warm-season grasses in the fall, unless you live in a frost-free climate, since this will stimulate growth as they are going dormant for the winter. Instead, wait until the growing season begins in spring or early summer.
• Winterizing Fertilizers: While there’s some debate about the usefulness of winterizer fertilizers, it’s generally recommended not to apply anything to warm-season grass after August.

​Every year, thousands of onlookers crowd winding mountain roads near where I live in North Carolina to take in the gorgeous autumn foliage. And among locals, the conversation often turns to when the leaves will be at their peak color and whether this year’s show will be impressive.
Seasonal foliage predictions are a mixture of science, history, folklore, and guesswork that range from plausible to downright superstitious. While no one can say for certain when foliage will peak each year, there are some general guidelines that can help. Here are some indicators and tips to allow you plan your next autumn leaf-viewing trip.
What the Locals Say:

• Hot Dry Summer: A common adage is that if the summer is hot and dry, the leaves will turn early. Foliage forecasters look for above average summer temperatures and below average rainfall to predict an earlier, showier leaf season. While that’s generally true – trees do seem to produce more colorful pigments after dry seasons – all it takes is a rainy September to throw predictions off.
• Local Wisdom: Local residents usually have a favorite weekend to enjoy fall foliage in their area. Here in North Carolina, the third weekend in October is considered to be at or near peak foliage. Northern states often peak in early October while Southern states may not peak until Halloween or later. You can also find a wealth of information online, including maps with yearly averages as well as current reports for this year. See the links in our further information section below for a few of the better ones.
• The Maple Factor: Because of their brilliant hues of red and orange, maple trees are the benchmark for the peak of leaf season. However, the peak is less critical if you consider the beauty of the early turners (like dogwoods and tulip poplars) and the late-season hangers-on (such as oaks).

What the Experts Say:

• Leaf Color Triggers: Leaves have both yellow and green pigments, all the time. When the days shorten and temperatures drop, the green chlorophyll breaks down, revealing the yellow. An early fall frost will hasten the color change while warm, wet autumn weather will delay it.
• Red Color: According to researchers at the University of Vermont and U.S. Forest Service, maple trees show more red color when they’re stressed, especially if they’ve had lower nitrogen during the growing season. It’s thought that the red pigment is a coping mechanism that helps the leaf hang on a little longer.
• Other Factors: The effects of factors like pollution, drought, and climate change are still scientifically unknown, though it stands to reason that environmental stressors are likely to have an impact.

ConclusionIn all of my research, I never was able to find a definitive answer to predicting the peak date for fall foliage, though I certainly found lots of opinions! Most played the hot-and-dry card (which is a bit vague, since summers often tend to be hot and dry), or resorted to the average peak date for the area.
It was often suggested to go early rather than late, feeling that it’s better to see leaves that haven’t quite peaked than to arrive after the leaves have fallen. From my many autumns spent playing in the mountain woods, I can tell that some years are definitely better than others and the peak can fluctuate a week or so either way.
But when you get right down to it, every fall is spectacular from beginning to end. If you have a chance to see it anytime – GO!

​For no-hassle home improvement this fall, entrust one company with all your repair, replacement, and remodeling needs.

While you were on summer vacation, your home was hard at work battling the elements. After enduring intense heat or seasonal thunderstorms, your home deserves a little TLC to get it ready for the colder months ahead. With fall on the way, now is the time to inspect windows and HVAC systems for signs of distress, and repair or replace them for improved operation and aesthetic appeal. While you’re at it, perhaps it’s a good idea to freshen up the bathroom as well, in preparation for the hordes of overnight guests the holidays bring. With expert recommendations from On The Way Pros you can make short work of these traditionally time-consuming tasks and add an extra dose of comfort to your home.
WINDOWS

Don’t wait for frost to set in before you winterize your windows. Structurally compromised windows invite cold air in and let warm air escape, forcing your HVAC system to work extra hard to keep your home at a comfortable temperature. Put a stop to winter drafts by inspecting and replacing inefficient or outdated windows to ensure comfortable indoor temperatures and lower energy bills all winter long.
– Cold resistance and energy efficiency:
If your living room feels like a freezer, your windows may be to blame. Drafts can enter your home through cracks in window casings, jambs, or windowsills, so it’s important to check these areas, and seal cracks and any rotted spots. Yet, as important as it is to winterize your existing windows, sometimes the best course is to replace them. Inefficient, outmoded single-pane windows let in more cold air than their modern counterparts. “Put your hand to an old window, and it’s cold to the touch,” says Dave Lincoln of Sears Home Services. If your single-pane windows are keeping your house cold and your energy bills high, it may be time to make the switch to new double-paned windows. One option is the Sears Weatherbeater window, a double-paned model with a layer of argon gas in between the plates of glass. That important feature gives you an extra buffer against the cold, and can help produce warmer indoor temperatures, better energy efficiency, and lower energy bills. “New windows keep the cold out and warm in—the way it should be,” says Lincoln.

– Sound reduction:
Do you wish you could live in a quieter neighborhood free from the sounds of traffic or noisy neighbors? You may be able to get your wish without having to change your address if you’re willing to change your windows. “Time and time again I work with clients who report that after replacing old windows, their living spaces seem quieter and more peaceful—like it’s the same house, but in a new location,” says Lincoln. Double-paned windows, such as Sears Weatherbeater windows, put another layer between you and the sounds on the street while they insulate your home from the cold, meaning you’ll reap double the benefits from a single installation.



HVAC
As you brace yourself for freezing temperatures, take some time to inspect your HVAC system. It’s better to discover any weak spots in your cold-weather defense now than have to deal with a broken furnace, heat pump, or boiler in the middle of winter.
– Furnaces:
​If your home is heated by a furnace, the most effective winter prep task involves replacing your furnace filters with high-efficiency versions to keep dust, germs, and other particulate matter out of your indoor air. Know that “high-efficiency filters must be cleaned or replaced more often, about every three months,” according to David Kenyon, an HVAC specialist with Sears Home Services. After swapping the filters, continue your preseason furnace checkup by inspecting the internal components to ensure proper functioning. If you don’t have much experience working with HVAC systems, you’ll benefit from making a quick call to a pro, who can do the inspection for a small fee. On the other hand, if you suspect that your old or underperforming furnace won’t last the season, consider replacing it now rather than later. The experts at Sears Home Services can provide you with a free consultation to review your home heating options.
– Heat pumps:
When it’s doing its job right, a heat pump is the unsung hero of ductless heating and cooling systems, drawing thermal energy from the cold outdoors and turning it into warm, comfortable indoor heat. But when the heat pump experiences problems, such as cycling on and off, making loud noises, or failing to heat or cool, it certainly makes its presence felt. Take precautions by having your heat pump inspected and, if necessary, repaired or replaced by trained HVAC experts like those at Sears Home Services.
– Boilers:
Many homeowners rely on a boiler for heat, sometimes using the appliance to both heat water and warm the house. Although boilers are highly energy efficient and have relatively few mechanical components, they are still prone to the occasional failure. When your boiler doesn’t fire up, doesn’t heat water effectively, or begins to leak, your heat could cut out just when you need it most. For that reason, it’s a good idea to get your boiler inspected early in the season. Trained technicians, like those from On The Way Pros Services, can diagnose problems, repair boilers made by any of the major brands, or, if necessary, install a brand-new boiler.
BATHROOM REMODEL

According to the old real estate adage, kitchens sell houses, but surely the bathroom is almost as important to a home’s value. When done well, a bathroom renovation can increase your home’s resale price while adding a touch of modern convenience to your everyday life. Renovations come in all sizes, both large-scale and small. Even if you can’t commit to a full bathroom remodel today, keep in mind that you can start by replacing just one outdated fixture at a time.
–Toilets:
Most often, toilet trouble can be resolved with a simple fix, swapping out the handle, for instance, or replacing the flapper. In other cases, your time and money may be better spent replacing the fixture. You may want to opt for replacing rather than repairing a toilet if it has a crack in the porcelain, clogs frequently, has poor water efficiency, or suffers from some other costly problem. These functional faults, however, aren’t the only reasons to invest in a new toilet. Even if you’re simply tired of looking at cosmetic imperfections like chips, scratches, or stains, it may be time to replace a decades-old toilet. To help you navigate your bathroom remodel, consider calling on the experts at Sears Home Services, who can advise you on selecting a new, efficient, ergonomically friendly toilet that fits your style and budget.
– Showers:
Nothing ages your bathroom like a stained bathtub or discolored grout and tile in the shower. Putting in a new tub and tile gives you a fresh look and a new chance to banish mold and mildew from the bath. To take your project one step further, consider replacing the existing flooring in your bathroom. New tile floors can “boost home resale value,” according to Ronnie Bedard of On The Way Pros. Even if you’re not planning on selling your home anytime soon, you can still benefit from a modest makeover. Tiny changes like swapping a lime-covered shower head for an easy-clean model can make a big difference to your daily quality of life. Whatever the scope of your bathroom renovation, you can look to On The Way Pro Services for a range of showers, tubs, and accessories as well as the trained professionals who can install them.
– Cabinets:
Whether your bathroom cabinets are part of the sink vanity, installed over the toilet, or mounted on another wall, they may benefit from a quick spruce-up. Particularly if the cabinets are intact but in need of a new finish, you’ll get a “tremendous bang for the buck” by refacing them, says Bedard. On the other hand, if the cabinets are structurally deficient, “refacing them would be beside the point,” Bedard advises. In that situation, cabinet replacement may be a worthier investment. If you’re not sure which approach is best for your bath, call the experts at On The Way Pro to schedule a free in-home consultation.

As November comes to a close and autumn gives way to cooler (and sometimes bitter) temperatures, you may be looking to hurry up and finish your fall home checklist before winter hits.
Before the cold arrives, make sure to winterize your home with these 12 last-minute fall home maintenance tips.

Stay Ahead of the Cold With This Home Winterization Checklist

1. Call a Pro to Repair or Replace Your RoofIt may go without saying, but winter is not the best time for roof work. Aside from ice and snow creating a slipping hazard during repairs, asphalt shingles need to be installed at temperatures between 40 and 85 degrees. Any colder and the shingles can become brittle and break apart. Cold temperatures also prevent the adhesive sealant from activating, making it easy for winter winds to blow them away. So if your roof needs a little love, add a call to your local roofer to your fall home checklist.



Need an easy way to dispose of those old shingles? Our roofing dumpsters can get the job done. Learn more about roofing disposal options in your area.

2. Clean and Seal Your DeckAnother fall home improvement must-do is to perform safety checks on your deck and get it ready for spring. J.B. Sassano, president of Mr. Handyman, recommends “walk[ing] around the deck and sprinkl[ing] water on several different areas. If water soaks into the boards, it’s time to reseal the deck. If water forms a puddle or beads up, the deck is repelling water and will be safe for the winter.”
How to Protect Deck Wood in the Winter

1. Check for loose nails and screws. Tighten or replace fasteners as needed.
2. Power wash the deck on a day no colder than 40 degrees.
3. Inspect for cracks or areas that are splintering. Fill cracks with epoxy wood filler.
4. Add a water-repelling stain to protect from melting ice and snow.

3. Winterize Your Driveway and SidewalksMost people don’t give their driveway a second thought when winterizing the home. However, snow, ice and salt can take its toll on concrete and asphalt surfaces. Make sure they’re ready to be put to the test with these tips for winterizing your driveway:

• Pull Weeds: If grass or weeds have sprung up throughout your driveway or sidewalk, pluck them out before fixing and sealing the gaps.
• Repair Cracks: During the winter, water can collect in and worsen existing cracks in concrete and asphalt. Use concrete caulk to patch hairline cracks and concrete sealer to fix larger gaps. For cracks in asphalt driveways, applying asphalt crack sealer will do the trick.
• Seal Expansion Joints: It’s important to seal concrete expansion joints with polyurethane caulk prior to wintertime to prevent water from seeping in and freezing.
• Clean and Seal the Surface: Before the temperatures drop below 40 degrees, pressure wash your driveway and seal it with a concrete or asphalt sealer to prevent damage from snow and salt.

4. Clean and Inspect Your FireplaceIf you have a fireplace, proper chimney cleaning is an important task to add to your home winterization checklist. “If your chimney has not been inspected or cleaned this past year, the very best time to do so is now, before the heating season,” says Marshall Peters, director of the Certified Chimney Professionals.
Fireplaces produce deposits which are combustible and can burn at over 2000 degrees Fahrenheit, according to Peters. This is hot enough to destroy the chimney liner and even set your home on fire. Find a chimney professional near you to have your fireplace inspected and cleared for safety this year.

How often should a chimney be cleaned?“The typical fireplace for most families will require cleaning every two to three years. Whether the chimney vents gas, oil, coal, pellets, corn, wood or other fuel, they all need inspecting annually and cleaned when necessary. The corrosive byproducts of each fuel type will dictate the types of problems they will cause in a chimney and which type of maintenance will be necessary. The National Fire Protection Association requires annual inspections for all solid fuel chimneys for this reason.”
   Marshall Peters | Certified Chimney Professionals
5. Check on Your Home’s Heating and AirDon’t get caught in the cold with a broken furnace – add an HVAC check to your fall home checklist. Older furnaces can be up to 50 percent less efficient than newer models, so if you’re shopping for a replacement, look for systems that sport the Energy-Star label.
If a replacement isn’t in the cards, here are a few HVAC tips for winter from Bob Burkholder, owner and president of Burkholder’s Heating and Air Conditioning:

• Check Air Filters: “Replace your air conditioning filter before shutting it down, and on top of furnace filter changes throughout the heating months to keep your system working properly.”
• Clean Up Your Outdoor Unit: “If you have an outdoor unit, double check for any debris or damage. Remove all debris around the unit to ensure the proper air flow and to prevent dirt or leaves getting on the coils or inside the unit.”
• Schedule a Tune-Up: “The number one thing a homeowner should do to make sure their HVAC system is ready for winter is to schedule a tune-up with a licensed heating & air conditioning contractor. During a tune-up most HVAC contractors inspect, clean, and test all safety controls so you know that your equipment is operating correctly and safely.”

Feeling cold? Turn up the humidity, not the heat.

6. Winterize Your Lawn by Cutting and AeratingYou’ll want to pamper your lawn one last time so that it can bounce back with ease come April. Here are a few of the last lawn maintenance tasks you should add to your home winterization checklist:

• Make One Final Cut: Give the yard that one last cut, taking it down to about two inches.
• Aerate: Aerating the lawn helps micronutrients get into the soil and feed the lawn before the colder winter months.
• Use a Good Pre-Emergent: Putting down a good pre-emergent will keep winter weeds from germinating and “stealing” the nutrition from the soil.
• Apply Lawn Winterizer: You’ll want to lay down a layer of fall lawn fertilizer two to three weeks prior to the ground freezing.

7. Winterize Your GardenWinter is also a trying time for your trees, shrubs and flowers. In order to protect your landscaping properly from the elements, add these fall tips to your checklist.

• Water Generously: Deeply water your plants before they go dormant. The best time to water trees and shrubs in the fall is after the leaves have fallen and before the ground has frozen. Do not water when it is colder than 40 degrees outside.
• Mulch the Roots: Add a thick layer of mulch to the base of your trees, shrubs and bushes to keep their roots warm and shielded from snow and ice. Traditional mulch is ideal, but you can use dead leaves from your yard as well.
• Ward Off Pests: When it’s cold and food is scarce, deer, mice and rabbits will see your garden as an open buffet. Their grazing can be extra harmful to your plant life in the winter, so be sure to have pest measures in place by the end of autumn.
• Shield From Wind and Snow: Dense shrubs or trees can be damaged by high winds and heavy snowfall. Wrapping them in shrub covers or chicken wire can provide structure and protect them until spring arrives.
• Protect Newer Plants: When winterizing your garden, pay close attention to your newer plants. Anything that has been planted within the last year is going to be the most vulnerable and need the most care.
• Divide Perennials: Perennial plants like lemon grass or fountain grass need to be dug out and divided before wintertime to ensure that they grow healthily in the spring.
• Clean Up Debris: To keep pests from creating winter nests in your yard, be sure to get rid of dead branches, weeds or invasive plants before finishing up your garden winterization.

8. Clean and Repair Your Gutters and DownspoutsCleaning and repairing gutters is not the most glamorous of home maintenance tasks, but it’s important to get it done in the fall to prevent ice dams during the winter.
To clean out your gutters, remove any leaves, twigs and other debris that is preventing proper drainage. Then, flush your gutters with water, inspect the joints and tighten the brackets if necessary. For a more permanent solution, consider using a gutter guard. They’re easy to install and will keep you off a ladder.



9. Inspect and Clean Space HeatersBy the time winter rolls back around, it may have been a while since your space heater was used last. However, it’s important to make sure any heating devices are clean and in working order before putting them back into commission.
“Heating is the second-leading cause of US home fires and the leading cause of home fire deaths,” says Susan McKelvey of the National Fire Protection Association. “On average each year, nearly half of all home heating fires occur in December, January and February.” Before you hit the on switch this season, here are a few portable heating safety tips to add to your home winterization checklist:

• Clean the Grates: While the heater is off and cooled down, use a microfiber cloth or damp sponge to wipe down the surface. You can use compressed air to loosen dirt and dust inside the unit.
• Inspect the Cord: You may be able to replace a frayed cord with an appliance cord if you have electrical experience. If not, you can contact a local HVAC technician to see if they offer space heater repair services. If they’re not able to fix it, it’s better safe than sorry – throw it away and purchase a new one.
• Have Proper Ventilation: If you have a combustion space heater, know that these are not intended for use inside the home and require proper ventilation if used to heat a garage.

10. Check Smoke DetectorsHouse fires are most common during the fall and winter months and smoke alarms are “your first line of defense,” says McKelvey. “Three out of five home fire deaths occur in homes with no smoke alarms or no working smoke alarms.” Inspect your smoke detectors thoroughly to keep your family safe this winter.
NFPA Guidelines for Maintaining Smoke Detectors

• Install at least one smoke alarm on every level, in all bedrooms, and near all sleeping areas.
• Test smoke alarms monthly.
• Replace smoke alarm batteries any time they chirp.
• Replace smoke alarms 10 years from the date of manufacture (marked on the back of the alarm).
• Opt for interconnected smoke alarms for full-home protection.

11. Check Carbon Monoxide DetectorsWhile you’re checking your smoke detectors, give your carbon monoxide detectors a once-over as well. Carbon monoxide detection is important year-round, but it is especially so in the wintertime. According to the CDC, most accidental carbon monoxide poisonings occur in January and the second most in December because furnaces and space heaters can emit this toxic gas. Replace the batteries and your detectors them to ensure you and your family will be safe through the winter.


12. Add Winter Supplies to Your Fall Home ChecklistThe worst time to realize that you’re out of sidewalk salt or that your snow shovel is broken is in the middle of a blizzard. Before the first snowfall of the season, be sure to take stock of your snow removal tools and other supplies. Here are a few final inventory tasks to cross off your fall home checklist before the winter:

• Check your tire chains for rust and broken links.
• Swap in your snow tires once temperatures are consistently below 45 degrees.
• If your riding mower has a snow shovel hookup, install it right after your final cut.
• Fuel up and test all snow removal equipment ahead of time.
• Stock up on sidewalk salt, firewood and windshield wiper fluid.

Bring on the Snow – You’re Ready to Take on WinterWhile you may be caught up in the hustle and bustle of the holiday season, take a little time to prepare for Old Man Winter. You’ll save a lot in winter weather repairs, and keep your family warm and dry even on the coldest nights. Once you’ve winterized your home, you can sit back and relax by the warmth of your (now cleaned) fireplace.
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